Need a Quick Refresh on Lash & Brow Growth Cycles? Start Here.

The Lash & Brow Growth Cycle

Anagen (Growth Phase)

• Duration: 30–45 days
• Why it matters: This is the phase to target with growth serums—the follicle is active and receptive. Think of it like spring: everything is sprouting, and it's the perfect time to nourish new growth for lasting results.

Catagen (Transition Phase)

• Lasts: 2–3 weeks
• The follicle shrinks and detaches from its blood supply. Treatments during this phase can stress the follicle or lead to poor pigment retention in services like microblading.

Telogen (Resting/Shedding Phase)

• Duration: Up to 3 months
• Shedding is totally normal here. Lashes and brows fall out naturally—this isn’t damage. Educating clients on this prevents panic and misattribution.

Why These Cycles Matter for Service Scheduling

• Lash fills every 2–3 weeks tend to catch the tail end of catagen or the start of new anagen hairs, which improves retention.
• Avoid brow waxing every 2 weeks—especially during telogen. This habit can result in long-term thinning if you’re constantly removing resting hairs that haven’t re-entered the growth phase.
• Microblading works best when the client is in the anagen phase, so pigment has better hold and the skin barrier is stronger.
• Tinting results can vary depending on the growth cycle. When done during anagen, tint grabs onto active hairs for a richer, more even result. But if done during telogen, new anagen hairs can emerge weeks later—causing uneven fading or patchiness that clients might misread as poor retention.

Lesser-Known Influences on Lash & Brow Cycles

Internal Factors:

• Hormonal changes (like pregnancy, menopause, or thyroid issues) can extend telogen or delay anagen.
• Birth control and medications like Accutane may also cause longer rest phases or slow regrowth.
• Chronic stress (and cortisol overload) can shift hairs prematurely into the shedding phase.

External Triggers:

• Signs of overusing growth serums? Look for redness, increased fallout, or hairs that grow quickly but appear thin or wiry.
• Harsh makeup removers or lash curlers can cause mechanical damage, which leads to poor anchoring of the follicle.
• Side-sleepers beware: Pillowcase friction is a real culprit for lash loss. Consider recommending silk or satin cases.

How to Optimize Treatments Around Growth Cycles

• Take photos at every visit or once a month to build a visual timeline of density and shedding patterns.
• Store them in a shared folder, Google Drive, or salon software that supports client visuals.
• Ask clients: “Have you noticed more shedding lately?” or “Are your brows growing slower than usual?” to get a sense of their current cycle.
• Offer bonding or keratin conditioning treatments during telogen to protect hairs waiting to re-enter anagen. They won’t stimulate growth, but they’ll fortify the hair shaft.

Busting Common Myths

• “My extensions caused lash loss.”
  Often, it’s just lashes naturally shedding in telogen combined with rough aftercare. Educate clients early to avoid blame.
• “Brows grow like head hair.”
  Not even close. Brows have a much shorter growth phase, which means they take longer to appear full after overplucking.
• “Everyone can use growth serums year-round.”
  Not without breaks. Encourage clients to cycle off serums every few months to avoid follicle burnout or irritation.

Pro Tips for Client Education

• Use metaphors: “Think of your lashes like flowers—some are sprouting, some are resting, some are ready to shed their petals.”
• Create a simple ‘lash/brow rhythm tracker card’ with months, dates of fills, and a space for density notes. It’s an easy way to visually teach clients about their unique pattern.
• Consider this quick client explanation:
  “Just like plants have seasons, your lashes go through growth and rest stages. Some are sprouting, some are taking a break. That’s why we see natural shedding and regrowth—it’s completely healthy.”
• Adjust aftercare based on phase: For telogen, focus on gentle cleansing and support—not stimulation. In anagen, it’s the ideal window for targeted serums or lamination.

Let’s Bring It Full Circle

The more we understand hair cycles, the better we can time treatments, set realistic expectations, and keep our clients' brows and lashes thriving. Whether you’re refining your microblading schedule or introducing a new growth serum, aligning with the natural rhythm of hair gives you a serious edge.

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