Why Your Lash Lifts Aren’t Lifting (and What to Do About It)

Check Your Shield Game

Shield size and placement are everything. If you're not getting lift, this is the first place to troubleshoot.

• Too big? You’ll end up with a soft, subtle curve—not the lift your client wanted.
• Too small? You risk over-curling or kinks, especially on longer lashes.
• Watch that angle: The base of the lash should lie flat and snug against the pad. If there’s a gap, the curl won’t take properly.

Here’s a quick guide to shield size:

• Short lashes: Use a small shield for bold, dramatic lift.
• Medium lashes: A medium shield gives a balanced curl.
• Long lashes: Large shields help prevent crimping or over-curling.
• Very long lashes: XL shields provide a soft, elongated look.

Pro tip: You want the client's lashes to cover approximately 75–80% of the shield. Hold the lash shield to your client’s eyelid and use a lift tool or mascara wand to push the lashes upward to see how much of the shield is covered. Once you've found the correct size, you can proceed with the service.

Make sure that the lash shield is sitting right in the middle of the eye. If it extends past the eye, you should trim it.

Prep Problems

Prep isn't just about removing mascara—it's about clearing every barrier that could block the curl.

• Residual oils? Curl killer.
• Damp lashes? Nope.
• Eye cream sneaking onto lashes? Definitely a problem.

Use a lash-specific cleanser, and make sure lashes are bone dry before applying shields. Blot gently or let them fully air dry.

Timing Troubles

Every client has different lashes, and product timing isn’t one-size-fits-all.

• Fine lashes? They process fast—too long and they go limp.
• Thick or coarse lashes? They need more time.
• Tip: To ensure a consistent processing time, always be sure to set two timers: one for the right eye and one for the left.

Temperature matters too. Cool rooms slow things down, while warm ones can speed up processing more than you expect.

Direction Drama

Even if your shield is perfect, poor lash direction can ruin the curl.

• Are they all going the same way?
• Are they laid perfectly straight across the shield?
• Are the lashes overlapping?

Use your isolation tool to smooth and space every lash. This step takes patience—but it’s worth it.

Bonus tip: Take a second to check from underneath with a mirror. It catches issues early.

Tricks Worth Trying

Here are a few under-the-radar tricks:

• Use a microbrush to “tuck” stubborn lashes into place.
• Do the mirror check from underneath after wrapping.
• Ask about aftercare. If your client leaves with perfectly lifted lashes only to have them lose their curl within a few days, it might be a good idea to go over and stress the importance of the recommended aftercare.
  
  

Let’s Keep the Lifts Lifting

You’re not doing anything wrong—lash lifts just have a lot of variables. Tuning in to the small details can change everything. Keep tweaking, keep learning, and know that every artist has off days. The fact that you’re reading this means you care—and that’s what sets you apart.

Need help figuring out a tricky case? Don’t be shy—this industry’s better when we share what works.

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