Still Avoiding Peels on Fitz IV–VI Skin? Read This First

By Analiese Stewart, Former Spa Operations Manager, Hilton Diplomat Beach Resort

Chemical peels can do amazing things, but if you work with melanin-rich skin, you’ve probably heard all kinds of warnings.

“Too risky.”
“Stick with enzymes.”
“Don’t even try unless you're a derm.”

When I was spa operations manager at The Hilton Diplomat Beach Resort in South Florida, we served a diverse clientele, many with Fitzpatrick IV–VI skin. Every peel protocol had to be intentional: the right acids, careful timing, and proper prep weeks in advance. Over time, I saw what really worked for pigment-prone skin—and what didn’t. That experience is the reason for this post.

Here’s the truth: you can offer safe, visible results with peels if you understand how melanin-rich skin responds and what to avoid. Whether you're new to peels or just want to feel more confident with Fitzpatrick IV–VI clients, this guide will give you the clarity you’ve been missing.

Table of Contents

Melanin-Rich Skin Isn’t “Tougher”

Let’s clear something up: this skin isn’t thicker or stronger—it’s more reactive.

Inflammation triggers melanocytes to produce more pigment, which can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Even gentle exfoliation can sometimes cause it.

Your job? Keep inflammation low at every step.
Choose ingredients and techniques that calm, hydrate, and support—not shock—the skin barrier.

Not All Peels Are Off Limits

There’s a myth that darker skin tones shouldn’t get chemical peels at all. Not true.

The issue isn’t whether you peel. It’s how.

Strong, one-time treatments = higher risk.
Gentle, progressive series = better results.

Progressive treatments over aggresive.

Even professional brands get this wrong in their marketing. But estheticians who specialize in skin of color know: patience wins.

These Acids Actually Work

Here are a few acids that are typically well-tolerated on melanin-rich skin:

  • Mandelic Acid (5–10%)
    Large molecule = slower penetration. Great for acne and texture.
  • Lactic Acid (up to 10%)
    Hydrating, gentle, and helpful for mild discoloration.
  • Phytic Acid
    Excellent for pigment without irritation. Often combined with other acids.

Avoid high-strength glycolic peels unless you’ve had advanced training and solid post-care in place.

Bonus tip: Start your clients on tyrosinase inhibitors (like kojic, arbutin, or licorice root) 2–4 weeks pre-peel to reduce the risk of PIH.

Application Strategy Matters

Small tweaks = big results.

  • Shorter contact time is smart. You don’t have to go the full 5 minutes on the protocol. Start with 1–2 minutes and build up over time.
  • Don’t chase the “peel.” Visible shedding is not your goal. Cellular turnover happens underneath.
  • Cool > heat. Avoid steam, hot towels, and warming masks post-peel. Heat stimulates melanin activity.
  • Stick with a series. One treatment won’t do it. A series of 4–6 gentle peels is the sweet spot for lasting change.

Know When to Skip the Peel

Just because you can peel doesn’t mean you should.

Hold off if your client has:

  • Recent sun exposure or sunburn
  • Active acne with open lesions
  • Poor homecare compliance
  • Unrealistic expectations (e.g., “I want these spots gone by the weekend”)
  • A history of keloids

Pro move: Say, “Not today. Let’s prep your skin first.” That kind of honesty builds trust (and better results down the road).

Aftercare Can Make or Break It

Your client’s skin is vulnerable after a peel. Don’t let them guess what to do next.

Recommend products that:

  • Soothe inflammation (think: niacinamide, green tea, hyaluronic acid)
  • Protect the barrier (ceramides, light moisturizers)
  • Prevent pigment (tyrosinase inhibitors)
  • Shield from UV (SPF 30+ every single day, reapply throughout the day if needed )

No scrubs, no retinols, no exfoliants for at least 5–7 days.
And yes, they should avoid sweating, saunas, steamed showers, and heavy workouts during healing. Be clear and specific in your instructions, written and verbal.

Working with melanin-rich skin isn’t about tiptoeing; it’s about knowing what you’re doing. When you peel with intention, prep properly, and support the skin afterward, you’ll get results your clients can see—without risking their trust.

Want to feel even more confident? Keep notes on how each client responds. Over time, your own data becomes your best guide.

You’ve got this.

Glossary

Melanin: A natural pigment found in the skin, hair, and eyes. The more melanin present, the darker the skin tone. Melanin helps protect against UV damage but also makes the skin more prone to post-inflammatory pigment changes.

Hyperpigmentation: Darkened areas of skin caused by excess melanin production. It can result from sun exposure, acne, inflammation, or injury to the skin.

PIH (Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation): A specific type of hyperpigmentation that develops after the skin experiences trauma, such as acne, a peel, or a burn. It's more common and longer-lasting in melanin-rich skin.

 

 

 

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