Still Judging Products by the Percentage? Estheticians, Read This First.

Why Percentage Doesn’t Equal Performance

Let’s start with the one that trips people up the most: a higher percentage of an active ingredient doesn’t automatically mean better results.

Take vitamin C as an example. Some formulas boast 20% or more and claim it's the “gold standard.” But what matters more is:

• How the skin tolerates it
• How it’s formulated and preserved
• When and how it’s activated

If the skin’s barrier is impaired or dehydrated, a high-percentage active can backfire—causing redness, irritation, or complete rejection of the product.

And this doesn’t just apply to vitamin C. Retinol, niacinamide, AHAs, peptides, enzymes, and even brightening agents all follow the same rule: the percentage listed on the label doesn’t tell the whole story. What truly matters is how the ingredient is formulated, delivered, and tolerated by the skin.

The Hydration Factor Nobody Mentions

Here’s something you don’t see on the ingredient deck: If the skin isn’t well hydrated, even the most bioavailable active will struggle to do its job.

Hydration is like the delivery system for actives. Without it, you're just placing expensive ingredients on a compromised surface. This is especially true for sensitive skin types or post-treatment protocols.

Pro tip: Always support hydration first, especially before layering in high-performance actives. Even in a retail conversation, this can prevent product returns and irritation complaints.

Stability vs. Shelf Life: What Clients Don’t Know

Here’s a myth worth busting in your next client consult:
Stability is not the same as shelf life.

Expanding on the vitamin C example–take a water- or oil-based vitamin C serum. Every time it’s opened, air, light, and moisture start breaking it down. That 20% your clients paid for? It could be oxidizing in the bottle faster than they think.

They’ve probably seen it happen:

• Formula turns brown
• Smells off
• Feels sticky or unstable

Compare that to lyophilized (freeze-dried) vitamin C spheres, which stay dormant and potent until activated with a liquid like hyaluronic acid. These preserve the ingredient in its purest form—and the clock doesn’t start ticking until your client mixes it.

How to Talk to Clients About Potency

When someone asks, “Isn’t 20% better?”—this is a chance to be their guide, not just their service provider.

Try saying:

• “It depends how the ingredient is delivered and whether your skin can actually use it.”
• “If a formula isn’t stable, you might be putting oxidized product on your skin—no matter what the label says.”
• “Let’s look at how your skin’s doing with hydration before adding stronger actives.”

Clients appreciate honesty paired with insight. And the more we teach them how to think beyond the numbers, the more they’ll trust your recommendations.

Pro Tips: What to Look for Instead

As estys, we know it’s easy to get distracted by percentages on packaging. Here’s what to look for when evaluating professional or retail products—whether it’s for your treatment room or a client’s routine:

1. What’s the format?
Powder? Freeze-dried sphere? Water-based serum? Each has its own impact on shelf life and potency.

2. Is the ingredient protected until use?
Airless pumps, amber glass, single-dose vials, or dry forms = longer efficacy.

3. Is the skin’s barrier ready?
Support hydration and recovery first. Clients with inflammation or flaking may need a totally different approach.

4. Does the product show oxidation over time?
A color or scent change means the active is degrading. This is more common than people realize.

5. What’s the activation method?
Products that mix at the moment of use (like vitamin C spheres or powder blends) offer fresher, more potent results—especially for clients investing in results-driven home care.

Want to keep the conversation going with clients? You could even offer a “label decode” mini lesson or make it part of your consults: Why percentage isn’t everything—let’s look at what really works for your skin.

Universal Companies is proud to have a team of experienced spa advisors on staff and welcomes you to consult with our professionals about spa products and supplies, including ingredients, equipment, and retail. Dedicated to the success of spa professionals everywhere, we're grateful to be recognized with multiple industry awards (thank you!) and proud to support the spa industry through mentorship and sponsorship.