The Duality of Dermaplaning: Dry and Wet Techniques

Currently, the most common training is a wet application performed with a round-tipped blade and a thick layer of oil or lubricant solution. Both of these items build safety into the procedure; the lubricant creates a barrier, and the rounded tip can help prevent cuts. This method uses multiple strokes with a back-and-forth technique.

The wet technique uses a size 10 blade and a thin layer of oil or lubricant solution with one to two strokes in each area. The size 10 blade tip is pointed in contrast to the rounded tip of the size 10R blade. The size 10 blade is preferred by experienced estheticians because it allows for detailed work and precise angles of the blade and handle, especially in the smaller contours of the face. The thin layer of lubricant provides slip for the blade but does not coat the face so one to two strokes are effective for the vellus hair removal and skin exfoliation. The thin lubricant allows the esthetician to feel the scraping vibrations through the hand easier than a heavier lubricant application.

The dry technique uses a size 10 blade on dry, degreased skin with one to two strokes in each area. No lubricant allows the esthetician to feel the scraping vibrations through the hand and the ability to control the pressure. There is a common misconception that dry dermaplaning is an abrasive and antiquated technique.

The two techniques provide options for your client base. The wet technique is well suited for sensitized clients, clients with thicker hair, or the client’s preferences. Using a thinner layer of lubricant or none will allow you to perform the dermaplaning in one pass, cutting down on time and the irritation of back-and-forth passes. Remember dermaplaning isn't shaving, there is no need to go over and over an area to achieve optimal exfoliation. Both wet and dry dermaplaning are performed in almost identical ways, except a thin layer of oil and a second cleanse included in wet dermaplaning. With the goals always being client satisfaction and safety, some clients prefer a longer treatment, and some prefer speed.

The methods and techniques may be different or more challenging, but they are important to learn for both beginner and advanced dermaplaners in a supervised environment.

Dry and Wet Dermaplaning Techniques

Dermaplaning application may be performed on dry skin or with a thin layer of product. The technique choice is influenced by the provider's preference, the client's skin condition, and desired results.

Dry Dermaplaning

Dry skin with an alcohol prep pad to dry and degrease the skin. There is a practice of using acetone, but an alcohol prep pad is recommended.

Pros 

• • Effective mechanical exfoliation on dry skin for most skin types or experienced dermaplaning clients.  

  • Ability to see skin irritation caused by the dermaplaning unobstructed.  

  • Only 1-2 strokes are needed for an effective treatment.

  • Faster treatment time.  

Cons 

• • May cause scratches, cuts, or redness on dry skin.

  • May feel more abrasive to clients with sensitized skin or thicker hair.

Wet Dermaplaning

Apply a thin layer of oil or lubricant solution to soften dead skin cells and facial hair.

Pros 

• • Ideal for dry, sensitive, mild rosacea, or mature skin types to help hydrate the skin and hair.

  • Oil adds a buffer or a protective barrier for the skin that lessens the friction and ensures less resistance and less irritation, but it still provides similar benefits as dry dermaplaning.

  • The facial oil will allow for the dermaplaning blades to glide easier on the skin minimizing irritation.

  • Chemical peel solution aids the exfoliation outcome.

  • Reduces scratches, cuts, or redness that might occur when dermaplaning on dry skin.

• • Helps prevent sensitizing the face or over-drying the complexion.

Cons 

• • May cause scratches, cuts, or redness on the skin.
  • Exfoliation may not be as effective due to the product barrier.
  • May require multiple passes depending on the amount of oil or lubricant solution used.
  • Oil or lubricant may irritate the skin.

Certified Advanced Dermaplaners utilize dry and wet dermaplaning techniques to provide optimal treatments to clients. The importance of having both skills is that it provides confidence, flexibility, and superior results.